Cristin’s first time exploring the La Jolla reefs and tide pools.
I know I have been away for a while but trust me it’s been worth it. As I begin to wrap-up my content for the next BBR Magazine, Issue 13.1, I would like to share an image that has continued to inspire me through out the the process. An unknown rider launching an insane air forward in La Jolla that I shot not to long ago.
Big Congrats to Ben Player for being Pipe Champ for 2013. It’s been a long time coming but you deserve it. Way to go. The North Shore bobyboarding scene is going off tonight!!!!!
Behind the scenes of BBR Mag Issue 12.3’s Board and Product Guide. This was really an amazing experience, I worked with Steve Sawitz and legendary board photographer Keith Gresic. We worked through out the day collaborating on the best ways to shoot 23 boards, 4 board bags and six fins. I was in heaven Bodyboarding and photography in one room it was a dream come true.
Outtakes from the Shoot I did a few months back of Editor of BBR Mag Steve Sawitz. The guy does everything he can for the sport of bodyboarding and deserves a lot more respect and credit then he gets. He is modest man and doesn’t like to brag so I will. Steve is the man. This guy has made my childhood fantasy of working for a bodyboarding mag a reality. Thanks so much Steve.
Artist Erwin Andriya’s rendition of a shot I did for BBR Issue 12.3 of Editor and Managing Director Steve Sawitz.I though it was kind of cool.
For BBR Issue 12.2 I was lucky enough to spend an afternoon with Adam Dumas these are the images and words that unfolded through out the day.
Adam Dumas embodies the power of bodyboarding and its brotherhood. He has battled his way through life and found everything a man can ask for on the other end. Much of our conversation revolved around respect, something this brother deserves. The sport looks good with him on the knee.
Josh: How did you get into the sport?
Adam: I was born in Newport Beach, I started surfing when I was six or seven years old on a surfboard, I got lessons, and surfed for a good four or five years. I ended up moving in the sixth grade and I was there until the tenth grade. The funny thing was I moved away from the beach and I wanted to bodyboard that much more. Even people I didn’t know I would ask, ‘Hey are you going that way?’ I really started progressing through out those years.
I got to a point where I got rebellious and I rebelled against my parents. Then my step-dad told me to get out and that’s when I moved back to the beach to live with my dad. It was tenth grade and it was kind of hard to make new friends so bodyboarding was my friend and that’s all I wanted to do.
That was the time when I started drop kneeing more. I kind of looked up to a few guys J.J. Ayala, Robbie Crawford. I wanted to follow their paths because they could rip, they were cool, and that’s what I wanted to be. Then for a few years it kind of got ugly for me. It took me a long time to figure it out. I went through a phase where I was partying too much.
J: So then you stopped bodyboarding?
A: I was about 25 or 26 and ended up going to rehab. I got sober. It was good for me and it opened up my eyes to how I was being. It helped me to become a better person than I was before. I don’t drink now just because it’s better for me. I perform better. I met my wife in AA. We hit it off, moved in together pretty soon after. We were in the same place, both out of rehab trying to figure out what to do.
J: So you guys teamed up together?
A: We teamed up and we bounced ideas off each other. Then we opened up Liquid Juice Bar on Melrose in Hollywood. At that point I wasn’t surfing that much and just focusing on life stuff.
That’s when I found out that Won-Ton lived up there. He is what motivated me to tell myself I can still bodyboard. I’ve learned more from Chris then I ever knew before. He has been teaching me about different kinds of DK shapes and I studied all the drop knee riders’ shapes and talked to them. I even hit up Lackey and asked him about his shape. I asked where his wide point was and I just asked around because I wanted to know what is working. I think it’s good to ask. It’s important that you ask what other people are riding because if someone that I ask tells me how good it is then I want to go buy it.
J: Who are you getting shapes from?
A: Toobs. Mike is shaping them. They are awesome. Their boards are insane. I’m not very specific on the cores. Extruded Polypro or Beaded Polypro is usually what I’m riding because there isn’t that much foam out there. Just give me fucking foam and put two stringers in it and make the shape clean and tight. I always ride two boards though because I need to have a small wave board and one for the big days. Right now, I’m experimenting with a kick nose. I really like it because it frees up my hand from grabbing the rail. Now I can be in the barrel (showing his hand dragging on the face) and just leaning in it. I’m not going to pearl. It’s totally new to me and took me a bit to figure out positioning on the board. I have had some great sessions on it. It’s a slight one but enough to keep the nose out of the water. It really makes a difference when it comes to shape and DK design. I’m so thankful, to Josh Shelly for talking to Toobs because no one has ever treated me this good.
Right now, ‘Im really stoked on bodyboarding, maybe more now than ever. I think that is because I have to work hard now every day of the week. Then when I get that one little slice of a day, I’m out in the water. That’s what I work for you know. I just want to surf and be healthy, take care of business, be responsible for once, and take care of myself.
J: Lets talk about respect.
A: You can’t get anything without it. If you don’t respect your parents then you are not going to get your allowance. If you don’t respect your boss then you are going to get fired. If you don’t respect the key holder to a surf spot, you are really screwed. You don’t piss people off like that. It’s not going to get you anywhere in life.
You just have to cut yourself down. I’m just a normal person. I’m nothing special. I’m not a terminator, I’m not going to destroy everything. I’m not going to punch people out. Maybe the time calls when you have to, but respect runs deep for me. I always expect it too because I don’t do anything to disrespect anyone. If I do I would love for people to tell me. I’m open to that. I’m not going to get pissed or get mad. That’s just helping me.
A: Thanks for coming out. I’m super stoked.
J: I really appreciate it because I know how hard you are working.
Support Adam and Toobs by visiting http://www.toobs.com/store/home.php where you can find this man on the cover of the Toobs Website.